Trolltunga

Hiking Trolltunga has been on my bucket list for years. The iconic picture of someone swinging their legs over a thousand foot drop looked terrifying and exhilarating all at the same time sending this strange rock formation to the top of my list of things to do.

We all know I am the queen of being unprepared no matter how much research I do. In April of 2015 I packed up my bags to head to Norway only to find out that the Trolltunga pass was closed until July due to snow. Of course. So why not try a do-over?

After hours of research I knew how to get there, how long it would take, if we could camp, booked an airbnb, found the bus station, and planned our meals all before I boarded the plane to Bergen.

Remember how I said no amount of research can prepare you for actually backpacking? Well, this is no different.

We landed in Bergen late in the evening on the 3rd, woke up at 7 to catch a bus we thought left at 9:30am, turns out 930 is the bus number and the bus didn't leave until 12. So far so good, just chill out in a cafe, talk, get some groceries before getting on the bus to Odda, the tiny town at the base of Trolltunga.

After a three hour bus ride we made it to Odda. Our Airbnb host had instructed us-- very vaguely I might add-- to get on a bus that leaves at 3:15... uhhh, going where? Apparently in the country side there are not house numbers. Three busses later I gave up and wandered to the taxi stand.

Neut. What a guy. This taxi driver had no idea where we were staying but felt so bad for us only charged us half the price for the cab ride. Turns out we were almost 40 minutes and an $80 cab ride away from the base of Trolltunga-- or any other civilization. But the views were incredible.

We had read to get started early. The alarms went off at 3am to call a cab to pick us up at 5am. No one knew where we were. Finally, we called our good friend Neut who sent his personal driver, Eagil, to pick us up and take us to Trolltunga, again stopping the meter at a fraction of what it should have been.

Egil dropped us off at a tiny sign that read "Trolltunga" with a drawing of a mountain shaped like a troll with a giant rock tung. We knew the hike was 10 hours round trip and starting early was the way to go. At exactly 6am we hit the trail head.

They say the first kilometer is the hardest. First off, I don't know who "they" are but "they" are wrong. Yes, it is difficult, 90 degree stairs caked in slipper mud is not my idea of an easy hike, but once you reach the one kilometer sign that reads 1 down 10 to go, you kind of start to panic. After a kilometer and a half of flat land you look up and realize you have to climb a freakin' mountain.

I have done some long hikes but remember, I am from Florida, sea level and flattest state around. 11 kilometers to Trolltunga over mountains, rocks, mud fields, steep inclines, snow, waterfalls, and did I mention the mud fields? Cause those we cannot forget.

My hiking boots will never be the same. I sunk into the mud at least a hundred times.

This hike is exhausting. It is daunting and every article I read never said how intense it really is. But it is totally worth it. No picture, saying, or article will ever prepare you for what you see though out the hike and at the end of it. You are standing on a rock jutting out over a fjord 600 meters up.

Walking out, and by walking I mean crawling, to the edge to swing your feet over is the weirdest feeling in the world. There is nothing below you for hundreds of feet. You hiked miles through ridiculous terrain to make it here and you did it. It doesn't even matter that you have to hike all the way back.

Here are some things that articles do not tell you about Trolltunga.

All the things I read never gave actual times. So here are ours. It took us 10 hours and 26 minutes. We started at exactly 6am and reached Trolltunga at 10:53 am. After 30 minutes of picture taking and a 45 minute lunch, we headed back at 12:15. We reached the bottom at 4:26. We have two experienced hikers from Colorado with us and even they had to stop and take some breaks. Plan for extra times and take your time!

Getting started early is an understatement. We started at 6 before the sun came up and we should have left earlier. By the time we reached the rock we were second in line for pictures, by the time we left, the line was over an hour long. On our hike back we counted 200 people in 2 kilometers. The earlier the better.

If you are camping, be prepared. The temperatures drop and the wind is ridiculous. We met a group of Australians whose tent snapped because of the ice, and it is only the beginning of September. Make sure you know all the camp sites and have a radio if you need help.

"They" who say the first kilometer is the hardest can kiss my ass. You have to come down a mountain that feels like it is at a 90 degree angle and smooth. Then you might as well slide down the stairs they are so caked in mud from all the people. The last 4 kilometers are the hardest. One and a half of that is flat lands so use that has a resting point before embarking on the treacherous stairs.

It has come to our attention that a girl passed away the day we hiked to Trolltunga. Our hearts and prayers go out to her, her family, and her friends who where with her and may she rest in peace.

Our hike wasn't easy but it was worth it. It was one of the coolest things I have ever done and I suggest it moves to the top of everyones list. We saw a proposal and a guy do a handstand, and met loads of amazing people along the way. I can barely bend my legs but I would hike all 22 kilometers again in a heartbeat.